A Handsewn Lace Grainline Archer
I don't remember the last time I enjoyed sewing anything quite as much as I did while I made this shirt...it was such a pleasure to slow it down to the basic skill of a needle and thread and just take it one seam at a time.
Overall, I am very happy with it, but I do think it will need its own specially made camisole and matching skirt (with high high heels!) to really do it justice..
I made a few small changes to the original pattern, while trying to keep the overall look and feel of the shirt casual.
Because while the fabric is absolutely lovely, it is a little stiff because of the thread embellishments, and kept wanting to hang away from the body and pool rather than drape and flow, which meant there could not be a lot of ease in the shirt at all..
You can see above that while the upper back is very fitted, I left the lower portion with quite a lot of ease so that I could undo a few lower front button's and wear it hanging over jeans (all the buttons are done up here) and still have the option of it looking neat and tailored if I tuck it into a skirt or pants.
(I also quit coffee three weeks ago and have taken up eating 24/7 so thats not helping it skim either!)
The original sleeves were just to loose to work with this fabric, so I pulled out my favorite single sleeve three dart pattern I traced from an original owned by Susan Khalje.
Below you can see the Grainline original (seam allowance removed) and overlaid the final pattern piece I used..
Its a gorgeous sleeve, the darts shape the elbow curve perfectly and it's so comfortable to wear. The armseye also fits every bodice pattern without any alteration needed!!
The darts almost disappear they are so tiny...
and it creates a curve that allows you to make the sleeve super tight without restricting movement.
The front and back changes were very minimal...
As I mentioned in my last post, I cut the seams down to a millimeter or two and then sewed a one inch bias strip to the remaining seam (carefully!) and wrapped it over the exposed fabric seam, sewing it again on the other side...
Easy but slow slow work...and it does make the smallest very secure neatest seams ever. I made sure to sew each line of stitching one above the other so although there are three lines in total (seam/souffle/souffle) because its hand stitches and not machined the seams are very flexible and soft.
For stability within the collar, cuffs and button band, I used two layers of silk organza layered with second piece of lace so that the color remained consistent.
and I have to say that I really really like sewing this way. I pre-empted almost every mistake before it happened because I had so much time to think about the next stage while sewing so slowly..and the shirt itself feels as soft and flexible as a yard of un-sewn fabric and it's as lovely to look at on the inside as on the out.
I will definitely be doing more hand sewing and making fewer garments in the future as this shirt feels like a keeper.
Plans for this week include pants muslins for my day with Kenneth King - very exciting!
and a new muslin for the lace skirt to match this shirt :-)
Have a lovely week everybody!
Leisa
