Marfy 3171 the long and now the short of it......
This is my third and final version of Marfy 3171. Its time to move on but I intend to go out on a very bright note, i'm going to get a lot of use from this dress, so happy with it!
Trying to get one decent detailed picture became a family activity today, we could not get one that was not completely saturated with colour, the red is so vibrant it would not dull down ...and we pretty much failed so here are the best we could come up with, until I have more time to get better ones...grab your sunglasses!
and a couple toned right down to show some of the fabric detail..
I had just under two and a half yards of the most amazing Silk Gazar that was waiting for the perfect pattern and this was definitely it.
Fussy is the word I often use to describe this fabric, its organza stiff with stunning pleat and simple detail potential but is as stubborn as can be. It does not like to be molded, shaped or gathered into anything complicated and can crease easily if not underlined properly.
That said I am a huge fan as it sews like a dream, hangs beautifully, always holds it shape and just elevates a simple silhouette into a statement piece.
I have a very sentimental attachment to this particular silk and really wanted to do it proud. The fact that the bodice gathers were small and there were no other pleats or folds to deal with made it a ideal simple canvas to showcase the amazing embroidery details.
The circles are a guaze with a feather outline that I kept wanting to snip thinking they were little loose threads but they give a extraordinary 3D look once you get past that!
All the emboridered detail is raised slightly off the silk and it makes for a very heavy fabric. I was worried for a while it would look like I had cut up the drapes but as the dress came together I got more and more excited.
So as this is the last one, I thought I would add more pictures as I have had a few emails regarding linings and construction details.
The whole dress is fully underlined with a silk organza, the circles in the fabric had a net backing so I used a orangey red organza for the upper bodice as it has little ease and I was concerned that a lighter colour would show through and stuck with white for the lower knowing the lining would compensate.
All the seams were then graded and catch stitched.
I played around but decided in the end to replicate the full pattern for the lining as the only bulk was the pleating and it was minimal. As I like to leave my hems and facings almost rolling rather than ironed flat, I pick stitches the lining in place by hand at the arms, front and back neck and zipper.
I think the Cavalli lining shows the front detail a little better, both are a light weight crepe de chine.
I would highly recommend this pattern as a straighforward sew. Marfy have marked it with lots of details and there are no tricky fit pieces. There are two front bodice, two back, one tie to be cut twice, one single bodice and skirt front panel, two side and two back skirt panels with a center back seam and zipper.
Its not easily adapted to a patterned fabric as the front skirt panel is cut on the straight of grain and the remaining four skirt panels are on the bias. Matching a obvious print would be impossible withhout pattern alterations and ultimately the skirt flows so beautifully because of the bias.
The only fit alteration was to the shoulder seam , which I left until the zipper was installed, I had to shorten it a inch on the outside tapering to almost two inches near my neck to ensure the back V lay flat.
I also removed 15" from the bottom hem for the shorter version and added pockets five inches down from the waist line , making them slightly lower than is standard to reduce any potential additional bulk around my hips.
Can I take a minute here to rave about a Japanese basting thread that you can see in most of my pictures, I do a lot of hand basting and really wanted to pass on how wonderful this is.
I first got to try this at Susan Khaljes March class . It really is amazing, it glides through fabric, stays knot free and seems to cut the time in half as well as being easy to remove at the end, I just pull gently and the whole thread comes clean out (so far on silk, cotton and wool) ..... we were all shocked by how good this is, there were long conversations about it, trust me!
Inna who writes the great blog the Thewallinna was in that class. She mentioned that as it was so hard to find anywhere but Japan, she had started a Etsy and was selling it without a mark up as a lovely service to all sewers. (although she is moving to England in the summer so it won't be for much longer unless she loads up a suitcase or two!) I ordered a few as soon as I got home..
It comes in a almost wool like skein and you tie a knot around the middle and cut one end to open it to almost 46" in length pulling a thread as needed. It lasts a long time and I really wanted to recommend this to anybody who bastes on a regular basis as it really is kind to fabric and easy to use and at only $2.32 so cheap. (I'd also recommend the needles, they are all I will use now, tiny tiny eye but these things are hardcore! seriously great and this thread fits the eye)
ok just wanted to share, everytime I use it, I love it more! ...... moving on!! :-)
Dare I say jackets???!!! I have to spend some time on the two I have already started this year as my next Susan K class is coming up fast, and I have to have them ready for sleeves...
and as I am already doing French jackets, and I find I work better when focused on one thing, I thought I would also make this while I was there, Marfy 3201, beautiful right?!? and the removable cape..oh my!
This is my inspiration, its been in the back of my mind for a while,
So I have been on the look out for potential fabric for a while , and was thrilled to find a almost exact copy in Mendel Goldberg this year. I believe that Chanel hold their fabrics for four years before resale so I was not expecting to find this so soon
Its a darker blue but its a genuine Chanel in a thinner wool rather than a boucle which is perfect for a trench with more intricate details.
So I will put together a muslin this week to see what the fit is like and if its still worthy enough to sacrifice my gorgeous fabric to!
as well as start the beading process on the blue jacket and dye/add the trim to the red one.....ever wish the days were much much longer?
Back next Monday...wishing everyone a lovely week.