Marfy sew along 1756 Pt 16 - Pockets, hems and trims
There are two sets of pockets on this particular jacket, one working set and one set of upper flaps only.
I interfaced mine using a light weight iron on fusible and thread traced the seam allowance, cutting the excess to 3/4".
Sew the seam allowance down with a catch stitch before pressing both the flaps and pockets....
Before pinning them to your jacket for a first look..
If I am honest, I do not like the flaps at all...its a little to safari for me..
I do, however adore Marfy 9821, so I thought I would recreate that look..
I squared off the original pattern, making two sets of pockets - one a little smaller than the other and re-cut them all.
I fused them again as before with a iron on interfacing and thread traced before catch stitching..
before moving onto trim...
More LFJ pocket info here
Anyone who has already made a LFJ knows how difficult it can be to find the perfect trim... I spent yesterday in a complete indecisive dither, wasting a whole lot of time trying to decide which was the better option...
Of course as my fabric looks like a glitter ball, my options were a little more limited as I don't just wear this for more formal occasions..
I narrowed it down to two in the end and finally choose the silver beaded version. While you can certainly see there is trim, its subtle (relatively!) and not as strong a statement as the black one.
So how do you decide???
If possible pin your trim to your jacket, it can be anywhere you want it to be ...pockets, hem, sleeve and front facings or just front/ pockets or sleeves/pockets etc
and then stand back and take a long look. Trim can instantly change a whole garment, and what looks great in a small sample can overpower or disappear into a patterned wool or boucle.
Play with selvage and ribbon, layer it underneath a trim and then pin it onto your jacket...and take your time. Its actually a really big decision - no pressure! - but it really can change the look of a entire jacket.
and if you are still not sure, finish the jacket without it. It will take a tiny bit longer to hand sew it afterwards but not that much more..
and worst comes to worst? you can always swap trims at a later date...I do it all the time. I often see one I think will work better for a older jacket and change them over...its a great way of getting a new look for little $.
My final trim - hand sewn to the selvedge and then trimmed so only one frayed edge remains...
and sewn to the pockets using a double threaded running stitch.
Extra info from the LFJ trim post..
I have two favorite stores in NYC, one is M & J trim and the other is Mood, they both have a vast selection and as there is so much to choose from I often find myself buying a replacement trim for a jacket and swapping it out....so its worth remembering that you can change it as often as you want!
If possible when you do shop for trim, take your jacket or a very large swatch with you..so you can lay the trim out and stand back. Boucles tend to be visually overpowering so you might need to layer your trim with ribbon or similar to make it stand out sufficiently.
To sew, start your trim on the side seam of the hem where it is least noticeable and pin the whole jacket out before you begin. Check for flaws and marks before you sew!
Use a double thread to fell stitch both the upper and lower edges through the wool but not to the silk lining. I often keep one hand under the jacket while I stitch.
Use your iron and small darts or folds to manipulate the curves around the neckline. Trim is rarely cut on bias, so it won't naturally curve.
and of course if you prefer, you could sew your trim before you fell stitch your lining especially if you are adding lots of layers. I tend not to do this if my trim is bulky or has beading as its harder to hold with all the extra weight for fell stitching.
I like to decide on my hem and sleeve length when I have trim and pockets decided. They change the proportions of a jacket enormously and I find it much easier to make that final decision when you can visually see what it will look like completed.
Pin the hem up at a few different lengths and take pictures, walk around and try your jacket with any other garments you could pair it with.
I admit to learning the hard way... its much better to find out now if it's to short/long for most of your favorite clothes....
and then take lots more pictures!! they really do give you a whole new perspective.
Once you decide, there are a couple of methods for hemming...
A) Use a loose catch stitch to sew all around, leaving a good 2" hem if possible, before gently pressing to set the stitching. If you like a softer less pressed hem, only use the edge to set your catch stitches.
B) Use a machine stitch, set at a larger size and with reduced tension...a walking foot would also be very useful if you own one and press as before.
So one more post to go...lining and hooks and its all over :-)
Have a great evening..
As always - Any questions? just leave a comment or send me a email to Hellochallengingsew@gmail.com, (or click the envelope icon on the top right of the page)