Marfy 2922 another quilted tailored blazer!!
Its not very often I run so late the pictures have sunsets, but today was one of those days...
I've crawled to the finish with this one, it was tough and I can't say I like it much right now.....over a hundred hours of sewing can make or break how I feel about something for sure!
The fabric was just a challenge every step of the way...I struggled with it while making 9821 but as the jacket was more unstructured it was easier, tailoring this one has been hard.
Its actually a very stable Chanel woven wool, but it feels like a thick canvas, its very beautiful indeed but .....it unraveled about as fast as I could sew it, fell apart when unpicked, folded in on itself if the smallest amount of ease was left and hated any and all pressing/steaming. The sequins made my sewing machine jump every few minute (so its virtually all handsewn) and the metalic thread took any stretch away....
and this is why a couture jacket at Chanel costs $35k, you need years of experience and skill to deal with these kind of fabrics, none of which I posess and while I admit I learnt more with this jacket than all the others put together , its back to lovely simple boucles for me for a while!
On the bright side I have loved making two completely different versions as I can honestly say its a much better pattern for a looser wool/boucle/tweed and one that is of a lighter weight. The back neck on the boucle version sits nicely but the heavier wool sleeves pull the shoulders and collar down. I think shoulder pads would solve that but its worth considering if you are going to make it.
The trim should also be very flat if you like the look of the pattern image..
The lapels do lay flat but any bulk behind them pushes them out and then that distorts the hang. The trim I've used is temporary, I think it needs something much stronger visually but it will do for now.... I really need a trip to M&J to find a better one.....and maybe some buttons for the pockets.
Sorry about the left shoulder, my daughter left it hanging by the shoulder on the edge of a chair, bless her.....
Overall the fit is pretty good , and it's really comfortable but.......I need some time before I can look at this again :-) or iron out that bump...
So construction details:
I used hair canvas and pad stitching on the front pieces...
and added four bound button holes...it hated those too! One is slightly smaller as a sequin hiding under the fabric got caught in the needle....oh the fun I've had this week!!!
The front sides are quilted and fell stitched to the facings...
and the back is completely quilted.
So while I think the pattern is quite fantastic, and I would highly recommend, I would stress that fabric choices can make or break it......
and now its down to the fun part, sewing prep for Baltimore!!! wahoo!!!
and I have two project planned...as I try to learn something completely new every class I thought I would focus this time on foundations and who better to learn from than the master of bridal couture?
With three teenage girls, all of which are taller and curvier than me, real knowledge of boing and corsetry is going to be a must for future sewing
This will be my first make for the week, I will be cutting and assembling this here, so that we can work on the corselette that will be fitted underneath. Susan has suggested making one which will fasten at the back mirroring the dress which intrigues me! theres not a lot there to work with...
I'm also leaving huge seam allowances so that it can be adjusted for future daughter wear (and by that I mean proms not weddings.!!....a quick hacking off of the hem to knee length etc etc)
and of course the perfect fabric has been sat waiting to fulfill its destiny all year.....a stunning Dior silk taffetta...I bought it in December from Tesutti, their christmas sale rocks!!
and the second project is an amazing corset from Marfy...2630
I have a sinking feeling that this is going to be of those life long obsession's .....just think of the possibilites if I can get the basic construction down :-)
and for this I have a black silk taffetta wool, a super sturdy lightweigh matte fabric. Its hard to photograph but I will have something to show next week.
I can't wait to get going on these, its going to be nice to be away from outerwear for a while...
and I got a couple of great pics from my MIL this week, she is on the home stretch with my sons quilt..
Its been laid out on the grass in between Welsh rain showers so we could see the full effect!
I can't even begin to image how much time this has taken, its stunning, truly and being that my kid is 6 foot 7" the size is a necessity... and of course now I can see it, I am thinking of the empty suitcase it will leave once delivered.....shopping trip Gill?!
Audible this week: Orange is the new black by Piper Kerman. I'm late to the party with this one, and overall I was fascinated but there were times when it sounded like she was writing a letter to a country club about poor service rather than serving a prison sentence .... and boy my eyes were rolling at some of her thoughts "I am fairly certain I was the first Seven sisters to eat foie gras sandwiches in the lobby of a state penitentiary" and "how the Louis Vuitton notepaper was a welcome brightness to her darkest days".....Oh please .....I got it, shes upper class, she mentions it enough..its good though!
Book....stressful busy week. = always always back to The road by Cormac McCarthy My most favorite and treasured book. I must have read this fifty times or more. I had to buy a new one this week, my original has fallen apart......I don't have the words to do it justice. It leaves me humbled. Audible do a stunning version as well but the actual book is a beauty to read.
and I know no one cares but I am so fed up with Project Runway this season.....in my house its a family tradition....no one watches it until everyone is available. The one time each week we all sit down (sad really..for PR of all things ....!!) although we do also make time for any and all Sherlock Holmes
The bullies, the intimidation, the way they are handling the crazies...i'm hating my daughters seeing this and if Ken had remained it would not have been watched again...I understand that ratings are important but these people have serious issues, how is any of this related to sewing?
....huh....scary when you realise you sound just like your mother.....
So a week of muslins and basic fittings coming up...and time to work on some French jacket sew along prep as well.
and Claire forwarded me this wonderful link to Ann Rowley's Flickr pool...you may remember that she won the BBC sewing bee earlier this year .... this is her version of a French jacket....very inspirational. (thanks again Claire!!!)
Thats it, time for bed!
Wishing everyone the nicest of weeks, back Monday from sunny Baltimore!! Ready Cissie??!?!?!