V7975 One little French jacket and a pocket or two...

V7975 One little French jacket and a pocket or two...

Believe it or not,  this is the first pink item of clothing I own......half way through the sew along, I realised that the black lining in my first jacket was not photographing well, so I dug deep in my stash and found this...

I always buy dark colours in stores and sew mostly neutral shades so they match and co-ordinate, as I have the  patience and attention span of a five year old when I get dressed but this has grown on me throughout the weeks i've been sewing it.

Its not quite finished, I have to find trim next time I am in the city, and I think the top pockets are coming off, but other than that.....

It was a nice easy fabric to sew with, for anyone making a first jacket a thick stable boucle is by far the best choice . the only downside was the thickness, I could not make my sleeves as tight as I liked as there was no stretch....   

However that weight meant it was perfect for a  big heavy chain and a curved hem.

and  as I still had the pockets to make I thought I could show how I generally sew them.

This is Susan Khalje's  favorite method for making pocket patterns and I have to say its genius...while she usually uses's napkins, I improvised with some paper towel :-)

I tend to start with the lower pockets and play around with the proportions by folding the towel until I find a size that looks good.  Interestingly,  I often find what works  on the dress form looks terrible when I put it on, so its better to be wearing it when you do this...

When you have a size and shape  you are happy with, use the towels  as your patterns  for cutting your fabric.  This is a great opportunity to add some visual interest so  I cut mine on the bias to make them stand out.

Thread trace them before removing the pattern pieces.

I like to reinforce my pockets with some interfacing, and often use a medium weight iron on for this...it adds stability without changing the feel of the fabric.  I also try to keep it slightly inside the basting lines so that the pocket edges are soft rather than sharp to compliment the overall look of the jacket.

Once this is done and the interfacing has cooled,  start folding the seam allowances over onto the wrong side, pining as you go.  It takes some playing around if your fabric is thicker, but lots of pins help.

And when it looks good from the right side, run large basting stitch around to secure.  If you are using trim or ribbon, now is a good time to add it..

Then lay your pocket right side up  onto the wrong side of your lining, pining the two together and roughly cut your lining out,  leaving about an inch of seam allowance.  

and turn all seam  allowance under the silk as close to the edge as possible, again pinning as you go.

Here I use a tight single thread  fell stitch to really keep the silk in place but I continuously flip the pocket over to the right side to make sure that there is no pulling of the fabric.

and finally a beeswaxed double thread and some tiny fell stitches will secure the pocket to the jacket exactly as the sleeve was attached.

and now its time to start planning jacket no 2!!! 

and for anyone who has not yet seen The British Sewing bee Christmas speical ...enjoy...  Patrick Grant looks like so much fun.. This twitter pic yesterday just proves it!

 (You tube just deactivated that account, as soon as I find another I will link to it...sorry :-(

So I'm taking a break for a couple of weeks , my family has flown in, and we have a lot planned.

I will be back on the 6th January, ready to get going on the Marfy blouse sew along...

(Marfy have just sent me the new letter size pdf which I will test today, so all being well that should be available within the next few days, I will post a link on Twitter when its on their site)

Wishing everyone a happy healthy holiday season, and a wonderful new year.

Leisa

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