Marfy 3201 V2, Wendy's dress form update, and a fabric hunt

Marfy 3201 V2, Wendy's dress form update, and a fabric hunt

Last week the weather turned cold, fast and it occurred to me that for all the jackets I make, none of them are particularly transitional.... 

This was what we woke up to on Tuesday morning....nasty....January in November.

and as 3201 was on my list to make again but more as Marfy intended, ( my first version  was quiltedwhich  unfortunately can only be worn in really really cold temperatures)..... it seemed like a good time to make a lighter coat.

I had hoped to be further on than I am but I under estimated again just what a mammoth make this is....

I've used a very sensible, matches anything,  dark grey cashmere/wool  that I bought years ago, I only had three yards but as it was 60" wide I managed to squeeze it all in...just.    

I had written Melton? on it, and  it could possibly be, its quite lightweight but does have a felt feel to it,  gorgeous gorgeous stuff!!!

Its a process in prep, there are a lot of elements, nothing is hard, its just time consuming making eleven bound buttonholes, a cape, cape sleeves , cuffs, epaulet, shoulder flare, pocket flaps, and pleating  and gathering...

 and as this is a forever coat, I wanted to do most of it by hand.   So far I have only used my machine to sew the main jacket seam's closed and top stitch the cape detail....nothing is steamed or set yet. 

 I've used hair canvas and pad stitching to tailor the fronts... 

 and added a pop of colour with a lining from Mood (bought a few years ago sadly)

I have also underlined the cape and cape arms with a single layer of tailoring ice wool from A fashionable stitch, hoping that when the coat is closed it will be a great insulator.  

 I am loving the sleeves so far!

 So its now a case of joining it all together, and as I can't quite remember how I did it the first time, it might take a while!!

 

Traceys jacket

I have received a few emails about the fabric Tracey used and as its on my list of wants,  I thought I would share the details...

The first day of a jacket class with  Susan Khalje , always includes a trip to Alice at Mendel Goldberg in NYC, when you are investing a 100 plus hours of sewing on a garment,  it's certainly  worth buying good fabric!

and as Alice buys  the most exquisite couture fabrics  direct from Europe,  this is always the first and only stop for boucle.   I can highly recommend a visit if you find yourself in the city.....its a truly amazing store! 

I gave Alice  a quick call this morning and she assures me that this particular fabric is a permanent stock item and she carries it in black, brown, blue and white.  Its 54" wide and $110 a yard...and she sent me over a few pictures ...

Oh, that blue flower silk lining...wow!
 


They do not have a online store but you can email them at Mendelgoldbergny@aol.com or call them at 212 925 9110 if you are interested.

(again I am not affiliated in anyway or sponsored by Mendel, I just like sharing resources!)

and I finally have great news for anyone following the dress form saga!

Other Wendy has arrived in Perth!!!!!  and she is simply fabulous!

Original story here...  and quoting Wendy "The whole process was a pain in the a....... But I am so happy  I persevered!!."

She says the fit is great, and overall she is thrilled.   

So if you have the patience and are happy to take your own measurements, its certainly a good option as I understand there are few choices in Australia.

The biggest issue seemed to be the shipping, and paperwork involved.  If you would like to know more,  Wendy said she is happy to chat , so leave a comment or email me and I will forward them to her.

 Btw, other Wendy is wearing Marfy 099, the lines on that pattern are amazing :-)

 

Book this week is The Abominable by Dan Simmons.  I am a huge fan of his and have been rushing to bed each night to read a chapter.   Its big, highly detailed, and well written.   Although its had mixed reviews I am really hooked.  Anybody that can write about Everest and mountain climbing, the yeti and Tibet in a" fascinating can't put this down " book  is a genius in my opinion!    I absolutely loved the The Drood  as well,  for anyone who likes historical novels.

Audible Inspector Gamache.  Still working through the series.  The only down side to these is all of the food talk.....I end up starving!   Excellent books,  my fifteen year old has been listening to them while sewing and is also loving them....

 

 

French Jacket sew along

Inna just posted part 7, the Fell stitch.... we are nearly there!

I will start making a video this week for next Mondays post on sleeves, as they seem to have been helpful....

and after that , its all down to trim, chain and pockets...

Have a lovely week!

Leisa 

Sew along Pt 8 - Sleeves, linings and bees wax with a video on the way...

Sew along Pt 8 - Sleeves, linings and bees wax with a video on the way...

Sew along Pt 6...trimming, seams, linings and a test video

Sew along Pt 6...trimming, seams, linings and a test video